Coffee in Burundi

Burundi is home to some of the best coffee beans in the world. The Great Lakes region of East Africa has a unique climate and topography that is ideal for growing high-quality Arabica coffee beans. Burundi coffee growers predominately cultivate the Red Bourbon variety of Arabica beans, which is known for its complex flavour profile, often with notes of citrus, berry and chocolate. The history of coffee in Burundi goes back to time of colonization over a century ago.

Colonial Beginnings

Coffee cultivation in Burundi began in the 1920s when Belgian colonizers introduced Arabica coffee plants. The country’s high elevations, fertile volcanic soils, and favourable climate made it an ideal location for coffee farming. By the 1930s, coffee plantations were thriving, but under colonial rule, Burundian farmers were often forced to grow coffee without fair compensation.

Post-Independence Struggles

After gaining independence in 1962, Burundi’s coffee industry was privatized, shifting control from the government to private entities. This transition led to a decline in quality as farmers, disillusioned by years of exploitation, abandoned coffee cultivation. The civil war in the 1990s further devastated the industry, leading to economic collapse and the near disappearance of coffee farming.

A Coffee Renaissance

Inspired by neighbouring Rwanda’s coffee revival, Burundi experienced a coffee renaissance in the early 2000s. Investments in infrastructure, cooperative development, and international partnerships have helped rebuild the industry. Today, Burundi coffee is celebrated globally for its unique flavours and exceptional quality.

2009-2016: The World Sees Burundi

From 1991 to 2008, the Burundian government gripped the supply chain and managed it through companies it controlled. Washing stations were owned and managed through a public-private company, SOGESTAL (Société de Gestion des Stations de Lavage – Washing Station Management Company), that coordinated the activities of coffee washing stations and arranged to sell the coffee. There were five of these SOGESTAL companies, covering different regions of the country and directed by the central government coffee-packaging company, SODECO (Société de Deparchage et de Conditionnement – Husking and Packaging company), which sold coffee through an auction system to control the floor price.

In the two seasons following 2006, Burundi’s coffee began catching the eyes of global specialty coffee trading companies. Burundi’s leaders saw the opportunity. In 2008, they privatized the coffee sector to help stabilize a war-torn economy through new investment and greater competition. The state-owned Burundi Coffee Board (OCIBU), which controlled the national industry began selling shares in SODECO and SOGESTAL to private companies, ultimately leading to the founding of privately-owned washing stations. International exporters and local cooperatives purchased washing stations and dry mills from the state and built new ones. Entities like the World Bank, USAID, CQI, and many others funded productivity programs over the next decade, and farmers replanted coffee and began working together by establishing coops.

More washing stations began operating under more suppliers and diversified the varieties of coffees that made it to market. Throughout the nation’s drying beds, honey and naturally processed coffees appeared alongside Burundi’s signature double-washed coffee.

Smallholder Dominance

Burundi’s coffee sector is dominated by over 800,000 smallholder farmers (impacting roughly one in four people in a country of 12 million inhabitants), each cultivating between 50 to 250 coffee trees on plots averaging 0.5 to 1 hectare. These farmers rely heavily on coffee as a primary source of income.

By 2019, 283 washing stations were in operation, owned by around 40 exporters, 70% of them private. Then, a 1-2 punch of climate change coupled with the impact of coronavirus resulted in much smaller yields which led to the closure of many stations.

Arrhythmic periods of heavy rains and intense droughts cut production by a quarter in 2021, and the peak output of the 2019 season have not been reached since. What’s more, fuel shortages slowed cherry and parchment deliveries while export fees rocketed by nearly 350%. President Évariste Ndayishimiye took office in 2020 and declared a sweeping reform of the entire coffee industry in the country aimed at better regulation and standardization of Burundi’s top export in order to generate more profits. This reform led to the establishment of ODECA as the official government body overseeing Burundi’s national coffee industry.(https://bi.chm-cbd.net/node/1269) Accordingly, ODECA immediately took over all of SODECO’s operations and seized control of SOGESTAL’s washing stations (around a hundred) spread around Burundi’s five major coffee regions. Furthermore, all private washing stations in the country had to submit to the supervision of ODECA though many remain privately owned and allowed to sell their beans without ODECA’s mediation.

Today, ODECA oversees all 219 washing stations in the country, while it directly manages almost half of them (101) across the following regions:

ODECA Kayanze: 24 stations

ODECA Kirimiro: 31 stations

ODECA Ngozi: 17 stations

ODECA Mumirwa: 11 stations

ODECA Kirundo-Muyinga: 17 stations

Coffee Growing Regions in Burundi

 

1. Kayanza

• Location: Northern Burundi, bordering Rwanda.
• Altitude: 1,700 – 2,000 masl.
• Flavour Profile: Fruity with high acidity, citrus notes, and floral undertones. 

2. Ngozi

• Location: Northern Burundi, bordering Rwanda.
• Altitude: 1,600 – 1,900 masl.
• Flavour Profile: Fruity with high acidity, citrus notes, and floral undertones.

3. Kirimiro (Gitega Province)

• Altitude: 1,500 – 1,800 masl.
• Flavour Profile: Sweet, with melon, berry, and citrus notes.

4. Muyinga (Bweru Region)

• Altitude: 1,800 masl.
• Flavour Profile: Sweet and chocolatey with hints of black tea and nuts.

5. Bubanza (Mumirwa Region)

• Altitude: 1,100 – 2,200 masl.
• Flavor Profile: Delicate and fruity, with pineapple and berry notes.

6. Kirundo (Bugesera Region)

• Altitude: 1,400 – 1,700 masl.
• Flavour Profile: Wild, floral, with complex fruity and spicy notes.

 

The Regions below are especially renowned for their exceptional quality:

Kayanza Region

One of the most notable coffee growing regions in Burundi is the Kayanza region, located in the northern part of the country. The fertile volcanic soils in this region, coupled with the high altitudes and favourable climate, create optimal conditions for coffee cultivation.

Coffee beans from the Kayanza region are often described as having a bright acidity, coupled with fruity and floral notes, making for a delightful cup of coffee.

• Location: Northern part of Burundi.
• Conditions: Fertile volcanic soils, high altitudes, and favourable climate.
• Coffee Beans: Bright acidity, fruity, and floral notes.

 

Ngozi Region

Another prominent coffee growing region in Burundi is the Ngozi region. The Ngozi region is famous for producing coffee with a medium body and a complex flavour profile.

Its mountainous terrain and volcanic soils contribute to the unique characteristics of the coffee beans grown here. Ngozi coffee is typically noted for its hints of citrus, chocolate, and spices, making it a favourite among coffee enthusiasts.

• Location: Northern part of Burundi.
• Characteristics: Medium-bodied coffee with a complex flavour profile.
• Unique Factors: Mountainous terrain and volcanic soils.
• Flavor Notes: Hints of citrus, chocolate, and spices.

 

Muyinga Region

The Muyinga region is another noteworthy coffee growing area which is known for its coffee with a full-bodied mouthfeel and a rich, deep flavour.

The cool climate in this area slows down the ripening process of the coffee cherry, allowing for the development of complex flavours.

Coffee from Muyinga often exhibits notes of dark chocolate, caramel, and red fruit, making it an excellent choice for those who appreciate a bold and robust cup of coffee.

• Location: Northeastern part of Burundi.
• Coffee Profile: Full-bodied mouthfeel and rich, deep flavour.
• Climate Influence: A cool climate slows down cherry ripening, allowing for complex flavours.
• Taste Notes: Dark chocolate, caramel, and red fruit.

 

Annual Production of Arabica Coffee in Burundi (in Metric Tons)

Parchment Coffee (pre-milling)	21,628	32,786	10,885	18,868	8,552	23,126
Green Coffee Beans (milled)	16,079	25,766	8,184	13,856	6,272	17,539
Year	2017-18	2018-19	2019-20	2020-21	2021-22	2022-23

 

Dry Milling Process

Once the the beans have been dried to the appropriate moisture content of around 12% (the same level holds for washed and naturally processed beans alike), the following necessary processes take place in designated dry mills that are scattered throughout the country (ODECA runs three dry mills, in Bujumbura, Gitega, and Ngozi):

Husking: The dry parchment is hulled to remove the outer skin. This process yields green coffee beans, which are ready for grading and roasting.

Grading: The green beans are then sorted according to their weight and size, each of which affects market value. During this stage, defective beans are also eliminated. Advanced machines (commonly referred to as “Triage”) utilize air separation to distinguish between lighter and heavier beans. This process helps ensure that only the heaviest and most dense beans indicative of higher quality are retained for sale.

Storing: The Beans are placed in standard 60kg jute bags and are stored in a warehouse awaiting shipment.

Quality Control: Before shipment, beans samples are taken from each bag to the lab, where they are graded again and manually checked for defects to ensure they were adequately classified and adhere to the agreed-upon quality.

Grades of Clean Arabica Coffee

Grade Descriptions:

A/AA/AAA Heavy, solid beans according to size, with A the biggest and C the smallest

B Medium-sized beans that fall below the AA grade in terms of size and weight.

C Smaller beans with lesser density and quality.

PB “Peaberry” are beans that are fully formed and heavy but in which the cherry has developed into one instead of the usual two beans.

E Elephants” are misformed beans that have two parts closely fitting into each other and separate when the bean is roasted.

TT Light beans removed during the screening process.

HP Defective beans which have been removed by hand picking.

Market Implications of Coffee Grading

The grading system is crucial for both quality assessment and pricing in the marketplace. The grades A, B, C, and PB represent the highest quality coffees, commanding better prices due to their density and flavour potential. Conversely, lower grade beans are typically used for blends and products where specific flavour profiling is less critical.

Quality Assurance and Sustainable Practices

Good Agricultural Practices: Ensuring that the coffee trees are well nourished and cared for is vital for producing high quality beans. Implementing consistent soil nutrition strategies can secure good quality harvests year after year.

Out-turn Report: At the end of the milling and grading process, an “out-turn report” summarizing the weight proportions of each coffee grade is produced. This report is key for farmers to understand the value of their coffee and determine how much can be sold at premium prices.

Final Classification: The final classification of coffee involves roasting and tasting (cupping) by experts known as cuppers or liquors to assess flavour profiles. This expertise is essential for successfully marketing the coffee. Any cupping grade above 80% is considered very good coffee.

Common Defects in Coffee Beans

Coffee Beans Retention Ratio Measurement

The retention ratio is typically evaluated using different screen sizes for grading the beans. The screen sizes refer to the size of holes in a sieve that separates beans and allows for classification based on their diameter. The coffee beans retention ratio measurement is an important aspect of the coffee curing process, particularly for quality grading and classification. This measurement involves assessing the size and weight distribution of coffee beans after processing to ensure that they meet specific quality standards.

Importance of Retention Ratio Measurement

1. Quality Control: The retention ratio measurement helps ensure that only beans of the desired size and quality are sold in the market, maintaining the standards expected by consumers.

2. Market Differentiation: Grading the beans allows producers to differentiate between various quality levels and set pricing accordingly.

3. Consumer Confidence: Ensuring consistent quality through proper classification helps build consumer trust in the brand or region from which the coffee is sourced.

4. Cupping Profile: The size and quality of the beans can affect the roasting process and ultimately influence the flavour profile of the coffee, which is why this measurement is crucial in the curing process.

The coffee beans retention ratio measurement is vital for ensuring that beans meet specific standards, affecting both quality and marketability. The meticulous measurement process reflects the dedication to producing high-quality coffee.

Screening Sieves:

Here’s a breakdown of the coffee beans retention ratio:

1. Screen 18 (Extra)

Over Screen 18: > 94%

Screen 16: < 05%

Screen 14: < 01%

Interpretation: For beans classified as “Extra,” more than 94% of the beans must pass through screen 18, ensuring that they are of larger size and meet high-quality standards.

2. Screen 16 (Superior)

Over Screen 18: < 05%

Screen 16: > 90%

Screen 14: < 05%

Interpretation: For “Superior” grade, less than 5% can be larger than screen 18, while over 90% of beans must fall through screen 16. This ensures the majority are medium-sized beans.

3. Screen 14 (FAQ/Standard)

Over Screen 16: < 05%

Screen 14: > 90%

Screen 12: < 05%

Interpretation: The “FAQ/Standard” classification requires less than 5% to be larger than screen 16, while a significant majority (over 90%) must pass through screen 14. This designation indicates a standard quality but still needs to minimize larger beans.

4. Screen 12 (UG)

Over Screen 14: < 13%

Screen 12: > 85%

Below Screen 12: < 02%

Interpretation: In the “UG” (Under Grade) category, less than 13% may pass through screen 14, while over 85% must be screen 12. This grade is typically of lower quality.

5. Screen 10 (TR)

Screen 10+: > 80%

Husks, Pods & FM (Foreign Material): < 05%

Interpretation: For the “TR” (Trash) grade, more than 80% of beans should pass through screen 10, while husks, pods, or other foreign materials must be minimized to less than 5%. This classification indicates a lower quality product due to a higher presence of unsuitable materials.

Countries in Africa, use a grading system which can be quite confusing to look at from a glance. The grading system in Burundi consists of the following categories:
• AA – ‘AA’ beans are often seen as the highest quality of beans you can get in Burundi. They have a screen size of 18.
• 15 – Also known as ‘AB’ beans, ‘15’ beans are a combination of screen size 16 and screen size 15 beans. Generally, these are seen as a more standard size.
• B – ‘B’ grade beans are a grade below ‘15’ beans and are often seen to have a low quality. It’s also very unlikely that this grade will have beans as good in taste as the ones found in ‘AA’ and ‘AB’ grade coffee.
• PB – Peaberries
• TT – ‘TT’ is used to determine a smaller grade of beans still. TT grade coffee is often made up of the smaller beans rejected from grades ‘AA’, ‘AB’ and ‘E’. These are also the lightest beans you can get.
• T – ‘T’ grade beans are the smallest and usually, the lowest quality grade as ‘T’ grade coffee is mainly made up of chips and broken pieces of other beans.

Now, that we have covered all the constituent elements, the following coffee grading table used by ODECA should be legible:

Grade	Screen Size  (inch)	Retention in %	Defects	Brokens in %	Moisture %	Cup
FW Ngmoa Mild	18/64,16/64,14/64 or 10/64	Min 60%>=16/64	< 5 defects category 2	0	11.5	Min 80%
FW AA	18/64	92% of 18/64	Max 6%	<= 0.5	11.5	Min 80%
FW 15	18/64, 16/64, 15/64	Min 60%>= 16/64	Max 6%	<= 1	11.5	Min 80%
FW A	16/64	80%>=16/64, max 20%<16/64	Max 8%	<= 1	11.5	Min 80%
FW PB	>=12/64	Max 88%>=12/64	Max 10%	<= 2	11.5	Min 80%
FW B	>=14/64	Min 88% of 14/64	Max 12%	<= 2	11.5	Min 80%
FW TT	Rejects of FW AA; FW A; FW 15	Min 60% between 18/64 and 16/64	Max 35%	Max 10	11.5	Average 60%
FW T	Rejects of FW B & FW PB	Average 80% of 14/64	Max 40%	Max 10	11.5	Average 50%
FW Stocklot (T&M)	All homogeneous lots with 11.5% humidity but not corresponding with above mentioned specifications and all rejects of above 5 % of over fermented coffees.
FW Ngoma – SDL	Specialty coffee indicating the coffee mill

Coffee Roasting

Coffee roasting is another integral and important part of the value chain of coffee, whereby green coffee beans are roasted in special roasting machines to different roasting grades in order to produce different flavour profiles (see chart below). As a rule of thumb, specialty coffee drinkers and coffee experts prefer to drink light to medium roasted coffee which highlight the bean’s quality and complex flavour profile. Dark roasts tend to produce less acidic coffee, which in turn yields a more generic, uniform and less complex flavour. Most of the coffee beans that are consumed in mega coffee chains like Starbucks are almost exclusively using dark roasted beans.